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 (This
tour begins in the Borough of Mercer.)
The Underground Railroad (URR) was a loose grouping of people who
believed that “all men are created equal” and went to great lengths
to help runaway slaves escape bondage. There was no central control
or planning. Abolition was the great moral issue of the Nineteenth
Century. The country split
 over
this issue—not just North and South, but within communities,
churches, and sometimes families. Abolition and a variety of other
issues took the Union into the Civil War. Both the abolitionists
and the runaways were heroic. The penalties were severe. Slave
Catchers dragged fugitive slaves back to their masters—beaten and
possibly mutilated. The stationmaster on the URR could be jailed
and fined $20,000 (more than $312,000 today)—a value far more than
most people owned at that time. Therefore, the Underground Railroad
was secretive; there were no records kept and little information
written until later. Much of the story is lost to history,
destroyed by modern improvements and scattered throughout the
County. With the above-mentioned ideas in mind, here is Mercer
County’s story. |
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Stop #1:
Headquarters of Mercer County Historical Society (MCHS) (119 South
Pitt Street): |
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Dr. James Magoffin
Jr. built the Magoffin House. He was a supporter of the URR and was
a “copperhead”—or peace Democrat. We have no evidence he used his
house as a stationhouse on the URR. However, local oral tradition
claims his outbuildings were an overflow area. His neighbor,
William F. Clark, concealed fugitive slaves in his house (no longer
standing).
To the north of the
Magoffin House is the Headquarters of the MCHS. On this site was
the Zahniser & Company Store. This red edifice was a “free labor”
shop. This store only sold items grown or produced by
freemen—nothing produced by slave labor. These items cost
significantly more than normal, so it was a good bet that anyone
frequenting this store had pro-abolition sentiments.
Behind the Magoffin
House is the Thomas McClain Print Shop. Originally built on South
Diamond Street by Fountain Reed as a barbershop, he eventually
bequeathed the business to his son, George. George Reed was an
African-American who walked to Pittsburgh to join the Army during
the Civil War, but was unable to do so. He traveled via railway to
Massachusetts—the only State allowing African-Americans to enlist at
that time—where he joined the Army. During the 1970’s, the McClain
family donated the building to the MCHS which moved it to the
backyard.
WHILE YOU ARE HERE:
Why
not tour the Mercer County Historical Society (1 to 3 hours)?
Proceed
south on Pitt Street. Sons of James Magoffin owned the next three
houses on the block. |
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Stop #2 Hanna/Small Houses (Northeast corner of Pitt and Beaver
Streets): |
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The house on the
corner is the Hanna House. Behind the house is a flagstone. During
renovations in the 1940’s, a passageway was uncovered under the
flagstone. Under the kitchen was a space large enough for several
men. North of the Hanna House is the Small House. The Hanna and
Small families were abolitionists and close friends. There was a
rumor circulating that a tunnel connected the houses. We have no
evidence of that at this time. There are rumors of URR “tunnels”
throughout the area. There are two aspects to this—first, there are
no tunnels running from the South to the North—the URR is not some
sort of subway. Second, there were some underground structures used
by runaway slaves—even if they were simple basements, or a hidden
one.
WHILE
YOU ARE HERE:
If you
continue down Pitt Street and go straight onto Hope Mills Road, the
heirs of Joseph Junkin owned the family farm about a mile and a half
down the road. The buildings are no longer in existence. The
Junkin family was active in the URR. Junkin’s granddaughter was the
first wife of Confederate General “Stonewall” Jackson.
Turn
right onto Beaver Street and proceed to first stop sign.
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Stop #3 Kilgore House (Northwest corner Erie and Beaver
Streets): |
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The Kilgore Family
was vehemently anti-slavery. Daughter Elizabeth remembered seeing
up to thirteen runaways at one time in her house. Mrs. Kilgore
tried to teach the youngsters how to write and on one occasion
“lost” a pen for her efforts.
At
the first stop sign on Beaver Street, turn left onto Route 19,
proceed beyond Interstate 80, bear to the right about one-half mile
beyond the interstate (New Castle-Mercer Road), cross over Indian
Run, and proceed to White Chapel Church |
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Stop #4 White Chapel
Church: |
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White Chapel Church
owes its existence to the issue of abolition. Like many communities
and churches, there were deep divides over slavery—even in a “free
state.” Many churches split over this issue. White Chapel became a
new church after the congregation in New Wilmington split. The pro- abolition
faction, led by John Young, created White Chapel Church, which
became an area of intense abolition activities. John Young was
ardent and led the group by example—moving runaway slaves north.
Dr. Charles Everett was a wealthy slave owner from Virginia. Upon
his death, he ordered his slaves freed, given a plot of land, and
some money. Pandenarium—the name of the small town—was built in
Mercer County near White Chapel at Indian Run. Enjoy the rural
vistas around White Chapel and Indian Run; however, drive carefully
as this is Amish country.
As
you proceed south, beyond the church, you will come to a stop sign
(Leesburg Station Road). Stay straight on New Castle-Mercer Road to
the next stop sign (Route 208). Turn left following Route 208 and
left again at the second stop sign onto Route 19. You will pass
Route 208 (to the right) and proceed through Leesburg toward Mercer.
WHILE
YOU ARE HERE:
If you
continue on Route 208 (a right in Leesburg off Route 19), you will
pass the Prime Outlet Mall. Shopping is recreation too! If you
continue beyond the mall, you will enter Grove City. Why not visit
the Grove City Historical Society on College Avenue (allow 1 to 2
hours)?
The
route of the tour has you turning left off Route 208 onto Route 19.
With a short side trip, you can visit scenic Leesburg Falls. Turn
right off Route 19 onto Leesburg Station Road—at the bend go
straight on Falls Road. About 3/10 of a mile from Route 19, there
is parking on the right and the Falls on the left. Heading back to
Route 19, stop at Neshannock Woods and Company, Fine Furniture
Makers and Educational Center, located on Leesburg Station Road on
the right, just after the stop sign on Falls Road. |
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Stop #5 Johnston
Tavern: |
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This was a stop on
the URR. Local folklore claims that during the vulnerable daylight
hours the stationmaster chained the runaway slaves in the basement.
The rumor says you can see hooks in the walls used to confine the
slaves.
WHILE
YOU ARE HERE:
Please
note the Pennsylvania Historical Marker for the Johnston Tavern. If
you are hungry, there are several restaurants on the way to Stop #6.
WHILE YOU ARE HERE:
Please
note the variety and quality of architectural styles in all of our
communities.
Proceed
back to Mercer; turn right onto South Diamond Street |
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Stop #6 Bingham
House: |
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Across the street
from the Courthouse and east of the Old County Jail (circa 1860) is
the boyhood home of John Armor Bingham. John learned abolitionism
at his mother’s knee. He met the Marquis de Lafayette
(Revolutionary War hero) during Lafayette’s United States tour, was
educated and became a teacher, then a lawyer. He left Mercer County
and had a successful political career. Bingham was one of the first
Republicans elected to the House of Representatives and served as a
major during the Civil War. He was the judge advocate general (JAG)
in the conspirators’ trial for the murder of Abraham Lincoln, and
served again as JAG in the impeachment of President Andrew Johnson.
John Armor Bingham also wrote the first section of the 14th
Amendment to the Constitution—forbidding slavery by any other name.
Later in life, John became the first Minister to a newly opened
Japan.
Proceed
around Courthouse; there were four courthouses in the history of
Mercer County. Events that occurred here included African-American
freemen getting verification of their status, hearings for runaways,
public meetings, and other legal actions. Return to Route 19 (Erie
Street), turn right, proceed to West Venango Street, and turn right,
then left into Bethany Church parking lot (Strawberry Alley).
WHILE
YOU ARE HERE:
Please
note the Courthouse (During business hours, the newly renovated
building makes a wonderful ½ to 1 hour tour.), Civil War Memorial,
World War II Memorial, and grounds. Also notice the Pennsylvania
Historical Markers located on the north side and north portico of
the Courthouse. These markers note the founding of Mercer County,
the Soldiers and Sailors Orphan School located in Mercer after the
Civil War, and the county and borough's namesake, General Hugh
Mercer. See the Memorial and Honor Garden—to the east and west of
the portico. |
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Stop #7 Bethany
Presbyterian Church: |
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The second Mercer
County Jail is across the street from the church (stone building
with a frame home abutting it—the warden’s residence). Slave
Catchers housed the fugitive slaves in the County Jail for
safekeeping while they filed the appropriate paperwork at the
courthouse.
One of the pastors
of Bethany, William Taggart McAdam, was a staunch Unionist and
delivered sermons about the troubles of the day, which became
divisive among the population of the church and town. One of his
lectures, titled “Our National Troubles,” was printed in the
Mercer County Whig—an
anti-slavery newspaper.
Proceed
north on Strawberry Alley; turn left onto Quince Alley, cross Route
19 into Shannon’s Kandy Kitchen parking lot. |
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Stop #8
Former Site of First Presbyterian Church: |
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Shannon’s Kandy
Kitchen stands on the site of the Old First Presbyterian Church,
built in the early 1800’s. On June 15, 1835, a visiting pastor, the
Reverend Dr. Nathaniel West, delivered a sermon supporting
abolition. Following this fiery oratory, citizens formed the Mercer
County Anti-Slavery Society on July 4. Reverend Samuel Tait, the
first pastor of this church, was preparing his horse to take his
family to church one Sunday morning in November 1838. In his
Coolspring Township barn, he found a runaway slave. The evening
before, a slave-catcher was about to enter Mercer with three escaped
slaves. Their kidnapping occurred in Liberia—near Sandy Lake. The
two female slaves freed their male companion, who fled into the
woods. The slave-catcher lodged the women in the county jail and
hired two bounty hunters to help him recapture his property. Tait,
a member of the Mercer County Anti-Slavery Society, disguised the
man with his own wig, hat, and cloak. Tait directed him to his
house where the disguised man received food and protection. Rumor
has it that Tait “lent” his horse to the man for his getaway and he
was late to service that morning.
The
Old Mercer Graveyard is located behind Shannon’s Kandy Kitchen.
Enjoy a stroll through this quaint cemetery. Amongst the silent
roll call, you will find familiar names: Kilgore, Young, and, yes,
Tait.
Return
to Route 19; proceed left to Route 62 toward Stoneboro and Sandy
Lake (lake & borough).
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Stop #9 Freedom Road
Cemetery: |
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This cemetery is
located on the right across from the main gate at Stoneboro
Fairgrounds. The cemetery is all that remains of Liberia, a
fugitive slave town established by the Travis family, free
African-Americans. For years, this community offered sanctuary to
weary travelers. It was also the site of frequent raids by slave
catchers. After the Fugitive Slave Act of 1849/50, most of the
population fled to Canada to become legal free citizens. A few
stayed in this area, one an entrepreneur who sold cigars and whiskey
to his neighbors. Another person who stayed was “Auntie Strange.”
She was a runaway who was persistent enough to flee the South
twice. The first time she was captured, beaten, and her fingers on
the left hand chopped off. The second time, she gained her freedom.
WHILE
YOU ARE HERE:
Please
note the Pennsylvania Historical Marker for Freedom Road located on
the right hand side of Route 62.
Proceed
to Route 845, turn left to drive through Stoneboro, view Sandy Lake
(a glacial kettle lake), and turn left onto Route 358 toward
Greenville—crossing over Perry Highway—Route 19.
WHILE
YOU ARE HERE:
Stop
and visit the Stoneboro Area Historical Society (allow one-half
hour). There is a private swim beach at Sandy Lake where for a
small fee you can use the facilities. Fishing opportunities abound
for licensed anglers in Mercer County.
Proceed
on Route 358 to Greenville; turn right onto Route 58 toward
Jamestown
WHILE
YOU ARE HERE:
Stop at the Greenville Historical Society (West Main Street) (allow
1 to 2 hours), Greenville Canal Museum (Alan Avenue) (allow 1 to 2
hours), and the Greenville Railroad Museum and Park (Main Street)
(allow 1 to 2 hours). Enjoy downtown Greenville; it is on the
National Register of Historic Places. On your way to the next stop,
don’t miss the GALSA sports complex, a short drive out of town on
the left. In Jamestown, the Gibson House will be on the right about
a block beyond the first traffic light.
WHILE
YOU ARE HERE:
Before
Jamestown, Pymatuning Deer Park is located on the right, a nice
attraction for youngsters of any age.
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Stop #10
Gibson House (or the Mark Twain Manor): |
Dr. William Gibson,
a prominent Jamestown physician, traveled with Samuel Clemens to
Russia. Clemens wrote a book on their travels called
Innocents Abroad.
The house has been rumored to be a stop on the URR. In the
basement, there is evidence of a small room with fixtures to chain
fugitive slaves—much like the Johnston Tavern—to keep the slaves
from the eyes of neighbors and strangers. Other rooms in the house,
especially the room between the second and third floors, have this
rumored Underground Railroad heritage. There is now a restaurant in
this building. If it is open—and you ask nicely—you might be able
to arrange a tour. The Jamestown Future Foundation owns the Gibson
House, which is on the National Register of Historic Places.
WHILE
YOU ARE HERE:
Visit the Jamestown Historical Society (allow 1 to 2 hours), explore
the Shenango River Corridor, or continue on to Pymatuning State
Park. |
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